Anything higher than 6 gauges could melt or short out in use. Many emergency cables use 4- or 6-gauge wires, which are safe to use on standard passenger cars and economy vehicles. The lower the gauge (such as 1 or 2 gauge), the more "heavy-duty" the cables, capable of safely jump-starting a commercial truck, RV, or SUV. Considerations when choosing jumper cables Rating: Jumper cables are often rated by the gauge of the wiring, the total amperage load, and metallic composition. Finding the ideal set of jumper cables can be a challenge, but it beats the alternative: being stranded on the side of the road with a dead battery or failing starter. Some clamps don't fit well on certain kinds of batteries. Some jumper cables are too short to reach both sets of batteries comfortably. But what should you look for when shopping for jumper cables? The market is flooded with inferior models that may or may not perform safely during actual emergencies. At times like these, it always helps to have the right emergency equipment on hand, including a good set of jumper cables. All it takes is one case of forgotten headlights, a faulty alternator, or an aging battery to ruin a driver's day. With nothing normally attached to the circuit there is virually no chance of an overload if the wiring is properly installed and protected.When it comes to car batteries and starter systems, anything can happen. In the past I have wired my front bumper jump boxes the same way I do my winches, Heavy gauge cable, each with a secondary layer of wire loom to prevent chaffing or damage, plenty of wire ties, and grommets when passing through a hole in the metal. for automatic protection, I have not seen any fuses, fused links, or breakers rated for starter motor current, and with such a big fuse and wiring you would likely melt the terminals off the battery or have total battery failure before the fused item pops, as Rose states above, starters, especially when using long cables pull a ton of short term power which would requiring a larger fuse than the wire is really capable of, because you are acutually overloading the cables for a short time (which they can stand and is why they get hot if you crank too long). If the worry is that the wiring will short betwen anderson connect and battery while driving, consider all the other wiring that runs from the battery to places on the vehicle without disconnects, Starter, Main fuse box, Winch. It would be faster to yank the cable at the bumper connector then pop hood to access knife switch. Not sure why you would need a disconnect switch in line when there is already an anderson connector that can be pulled apart if there was an major issue during jumping, the best reason for using this system is not having open the hood to do a jump. I do keep a good set of regular cables hidden away in each vehicle just in case still though. Have not found a gas powered vehicle that they wont start yet, keep two in my diesel Ram (one for each battery) in case of cold start from dead battery. Today's highly computerized vehicles can be very sensiitive to voltage or amperage spikes, and not a risk I want to take when helping somone out. Advantages are you can jump yourself when running solo, and when jumping others there is no connection back to your rig eliminating any possibility of cross connection, or bad JuJu back thru the cables. allways hooked up dead vehicle then pugged in to wrecker to avoid any chance of sparks.įast forward a whole bunch of years and ever since I have added a battery booster to my kit like the Wagan-Tech Ion Boost or similar, I have found dust growing on my jumper cables. Eliminated a chance of an incorrect connection at one end at least, and did not have to open my hood. I ran anderson connected jumper cables in my tow trucks for years back in the day, and never had an issue without any kind of protection.
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